Made in the USA

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Recent made to order Buday delivery to a man of exquisite taste. Antiqued tan crust leather with dark brown buffalo leather, double soles and goyser stitching.

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Delivering these two pairs of pants this week.  The first are a pair of grey flannel’s (Holland and Sherry Classic Flannel). Nothing superfluous, just a classic wardrobe staple.  The second pair are cotton (Loro Piana) and they are cut with our “Hollywood” back and side adjusters (which should always sit on the waistband seam, not above or below).

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We make suits for board meetings, gallery openings, weddings and scooter swagging.

We make suits for board meetings, gallery openings, weddings and scooter swagging.

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20% off Sale

So today is the the last day of our 20% off sale on pants and ties (use code “father”).  Stock is dwindling but some great items still available and we probably won’t have another sale until next year.

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My friend Ed at pantaclothing just sent over two pairs of awesome shorts. The first, a lightweight lilac cotton - the other, an incredible slubby shantung in an emerald green plaid. It’s hard to find great, tailored shorts but Ed nailed it with these. You can see all the hand stitching details that are found in his standard pants here as well. They’re a trim cut, not tight, and feel great on. Really, really happy with these and hope he offers more fabrics in them.

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Was taking pics today of sportcoat fabrics and figured I’d post a few here. Most of these fabrics are a new offering from H&S called Impact, which is like a “aquaspider” fabric, for those of you familiar with Isaia. I’m over gun clubs but I would not hesitate to recommend any of these. Something you rarely see are solid green sportcoats.  The last fabric is a s160’s/silk blend. Its a beautiful color, has great texture and perfect for when you want to step away from the navy blue/brown groupthink. 

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Vintage Internet

So those that follow the various clothing fora (and c’mon, who doesn’t?) will be aware of the recent kerfuffle regarding vintage versus modern silk fabrics (for ties). Screen printed versus ink jet printed silks.  Italian versus English silk printers/weavers. The different costs of each. Etc etc.  While I won’t wade into the argument because there are so many different aspects to everything involved and at the end of the day, people will believe what they want to believe, I will simply state that, for my preferences as a tie wearer and seller, the quality of the finishing of the silk is first and foremost, not whether its printed by Hewlett Packard or by the hands of a blind idiot savant that only knows silk printing.  

Most people, if not all, really couldn’t tell the difference in printing methods on finished silk. There is also no evidence that one method is inherently better than the other.  As a matter of fact you probably have both types of silks in your tie wardrobe and you’re probably as happy with one as the other.  So then we move onto cost.

Many things that are vintage cost more than modern equivalents.  Watches, wines, cars are but a few examples where this holds true. While I am no economist I am assuming the reason for this is the scarcity of these items. So if you were to buy a tie based on it being a vintage fabric, I think it would be safe to assume that you feel you are buying an item that is relatively scarce and are probably paying a premium for it. That being said, the amount of silk used for a tie and hence the cost is de minimis when we are talking about $150 ties. High quality silk is very inexpensive compared to wool, cashmere etc. What you are really paying for above the cost is for the maker’s (I hate “artisan”, so overused) aesthetic, “stature” and the prevailing market sentiment of the brand. So the majority of the price of the tie is what some people refer to as “profit”. Many different brands, at different price points, are actually made by the same exact people. 

So what am I getting at? Honestly, I don’t know. I guess what I am saying is, if you are happy with your tie makers, you love the ties, the service, what the brand is about etc, that should kind of be all that matters.  Don’t miss the forest for the trees. A tie’s first, second and third job is to complete your outfit, make you look good. Handmade, handstitched, hand jobbed etc, I understand the premium it commands and the appeal but that should be the quarternary reason for buying a tie.

Anyway, for those of you that trudged through this, here are a few pics.  Some English silk that I have had for about 3-4 years and never got around to turning into ties, not sure I’ll deem it vintage just yet.

and for those of you as old as #voxsartoria, here is wool challis made for the many years defunct Sulka, I’ll probably make into ties eventually.  While doing a quick search on Sulka, I found the following 2001 NY Times quote from fashion publicist Paul Wilmot on the passing of Sulka ”If you spend that kind of money,” he said, ”you want Calvin Klein’s name on it. You want to see Ralph Lauren. These are the design authorities.” Ah, vintage #menswear.

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Once again on clothing being worn as opposed to staged on a mannequin, this is our latest delivery (to Norway!). A wonderful customer who is not afraid of patterns just took delivery. Going across the Atlantic in a box will cause some wrinkling but look at the clean back. Also, look at the length, this gentleman is over 6’ tall  but with a small torso for his height so we gave him a length that makes his top/bottom look the same size.

Given the boldness of the jacket, he has appropriately toned everything else down. Terrific look overall, bold, yet not overpowering. 

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Our latest finished custom jacket, a lightweight gun check from Holland and Sherry Ascot, just in time for spring/summer.  Shown here with our light blue striped shirt and cerulean blue tie.